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Consistency is key. Dawn patrol as much as possible. Surf all conditions—mushy days teach you to generate speed. Watch older surfers in the lineup and study how they position themselves. Film your sessions; it’s the best way to see what you’re actually doing. Cross-train with swimming for paddle power and skateboarding for balance. Most importantly, surf with crew who push you, listen to advice from respected locals, and never lose that frothing mindset to just catch waves.

Why does everyone tell me to get a bigger, fatter board?

Because volume is your friend when you’re starting out. A bigger, thicker board—like a funshape or a longboard—is more stable, paddles faster, and catches waves way easier. It forgives your mistakes in balance and timing. Trying to learn on a short, low-volume potato chip is the ultimate blunder; you’ll spend all your time paddling and no time riding. Get a proper foam-top to build your confidence and skills. You can always downsize later when your wave-reading and pop-up are automatic.

What’s a solid approach to charging bigger waves?

It’s all about building the ladder, not jumping off the cliff. Start by getting absolutely comfortable in solid overhead waves at your home break. Then, focus on your equipment—a board with enough paddle power and rocker is key. Work on your breath-hold and duck-dive in heavy conditions. Finally, find a trusted crew or mentor to paddle out with you. It’s a gradual process of building confidence, fitness, and respect for the ocean’s power. You can’t force it; you grow into it.

Surf Technique Deep Dive

Is one stance better for certain waves or maneuvers?

Not really better, but each stance can offer a different perspective on the wave. Goofy-footers might find it easier to set up for a right-hander (a wave breaking to the right), as they’re facing the open face. Regular-footers have the advantage on lefts. For airs and tricks, it’s more about personal style and practice. Some spots might feel more natural for one stance on the take-off, but a good surfer learns to rip on both their frontside and backside, regardless of their natural footing.

How can I use sets to find the best take-off spot?

The peak—where the wave first starts to break—shifts with each set. Watch where the biggest wave of a set consistently starts to feather and pitch. That’s your target. Paddle to that general area and adjust based on what you see forming on the horizon. The lineup isn’t a fixed point; it’s a moving zone that changes with the tide and swell. Follow the sets, and you’ll find the sweet spot.

Why do waves sometimes seem to come in groups?

It’s all about wave energy traveling across the ocean. Storms far out at sea generate wave trains, and due to wave interference and dispersion, this energy bundles together. Think of it like traffic on the freeway—sometimes cars are spaced out, sometimes they bunch up. These bunches are your sets. Understanding this pattern helps you predict when the “traffic” of good waves is arriving.