The Surfer's Diet: Fueling the Stoke

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What's The Deal With...?

Surf Lingo & Slang

What’s the deal with “kook” etiquette?

A kook isn’t just a beginner; it’s someone who doesn’t respect the lineup’s unwritten rules. Key things to avoid: ditching your board near others, paddling straight for the peak and snaking everyone, or dropping in on someone who’s already riding. Be aware, wait your turn, and always hold onto your board. We all started somewhere, but showing respect and a willingness to learn is what separates a respectful grom from a true kook. Don’t be that guy.

How do I pick the right board as I’m improving?

Ditch the idea that a shortboard makes you a surfer. As a grom, you want volume—your best friend is a funboard or a fat, wide fish. These boards paddle easier, catch waves like a dream, and help you learn to turn properly. The extra foam forgives mistakes and lets you surf more, which is the real secret. Talk to your local shaper or shop crew; they’ll point you to a magic board that matches your size and stoke level.

What does “peeling” or “peeler” refer to?

This describes a wave with a perfect, orderly break that unfolds along its length, like peeling a banana. A “peeler” is a wave that breaks slowly and evenly, allowing for a long, smooth ride. It’s the opposite of a closeout. You’ll find these at point breaks or reefs with a well-defined contour. These waves are a dream for logging, longboarding, or practicing turns, giving you plenty of time on the face to set up for maneuvers and really enjoy the glide.

Surf Travel Adventures

Is it cheaper to bring my board or rent one there?

This is a classic travel dilemma. Bringing your own stick means airline fees, which can be brutal. For a short trip or if you’re craving a specific board, renting or buying a used board locally is often the smarter financial move. For longer missions, bringing your trusty steed might be worth it. Always call the airline for their latest policy and pack your board like it’s going to battle. A snapped board on the flight is a total buzzkill.

What are “shoulder seasons” and why are they rad?

Shoulder seasons are the months flanking the peak season. Think fall and spring. They’re rad because you often get a mix of swells—last of the summer south swells and the first of the winter north swells (or vice versa). The crowds are thinner, accommodations are cheaper, and the water’s often still warm. You might not get the most consistent epic swell, but you’ll get more variety and a more relaxed vibe in the lineup.

Any advice for staying stoked during flat spells?

Embrace the adventure! Flat days are for exploring—rent a moto, hike to a viewpoint, or just chill in a hammock with a good book. Use the time to maintain your gear, study the coastline for new spots, or practice pop-ups on the sand. Connect with the local culture beyond the surf; learn some phrases, try the food. The journey isn’t just about the waves, it’s about the whole experience. The swell will come.