All Articles

The Unsung Hero of the Wetsuit: How Neoprene Became a Canvas for Surf Style

The Rubber that Lets us Chase Winter

The Silent Codex: How Lingo Shapes the Surfing Lineup

Gnarly: The Word That Captures the Raw Soul of Surfing

Bob Simmons: The Forgotten Father of the Modern Surfboard

The Stoke Behind the Stringer: Why Firewire Surfboards Are Shaping the Modern Lineup

The Big Glide vs. The Small Slice: How Volume Changed the Way We Ride

Reading the Lineup: A Traveling Surfer’s Guide to Local Etiquette

The Paddle Burst: Timing Your Sprint to Catch More Waves

Chasing the Swell: The Art of the Seasonal Migration

The Art of the Rash Guard: More Than Just Sun Protection

Riding the Conveyor Belt: Paddling the Pillar Point Channel at Mavericks

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What’s The Deal With…?

Surf Icons & Heroes

The legends are endless: skipping out on hotel bills globally, forging checks, “borrowing” cars for epic surf checks, and legendary pranks. He was a master of the discreet exit, often leaving a trail of bemused creditors. One classic tale involves him allegedly dropping in on a friend, only to have the friend’s board hit his. Dora sent a detailed invoice for the “damage.“ These stories cemented his outlaw persona, painting him as a clever, if controversial, trickster always playing his own game.

Dude, it’s raw, rugged, and totally magical. Unlike crowded breaks elsewhere, here you’re surfing in the shadow of ancient mountains and Gaelic ruins. The water is seriously crisp, but the vibe is pure warmth. You’ll share peaks with friendly locals and maybe a curious dolphin or two in the famously clean Atlantic swell. It’s less about perfect barrels and more about the soulful experience—connecting with powerful nature and rich culture between sets. Just remember your hood and booties; the Atlantic doesn’t play nice with summer wetsuits.

They’re charging with a mix of raw courage and smart preparation. They use jet ski assists to get more waves in a session, study footage of the break relentlessly, and train specifically for breath-holding and impact. There’s huge respect for the legends who paved the way, but they’re adding their own high-speed, critical approach. They’re not just surviving massive drops; they’re looking for turns and barrels in the belly of the beast. It’s a new era of calculated, powerful big-wave surfing.

Surf Technique Deep Dive

The cutback is the ultimate connector. A classic flow is a bottom turn, a snap off the lip, then a cutback to reset. Or, after a deep cutback, you can rebound off the whitewater for a re-entry or set up for a floater. It’s the punctuation in your wave-riding sentence that lets you start a new one.

Because surfing is 90% paddling! Strong paddle fitness gets you out back faster, through impact zones, and into waves before they peak. It lets you sit outside and catch more waves with less exhaustion. It also helps with duck diving and overall stability on your board. You can’t surf if you’re gassed from the paddle out. Building that endurance and shoulder strength is the ultimate hack for better, longer sessions.

The soul is calling! Many top-tier surfers are chasing a different kind of fulfillment. They’re trading the pressure cooker of the CT for exploratory missions, cinematic projects, and deeper connections with the ocean. It’s about crafting a legacy beyond a trophy, telling a story through film, and surfing waves that truly inspire them. It’s a return to surfing’s adventurous, exploratory roots.