All Articles

The Barrel: Riding the Green Room

The Anatomy of a Closeout: Why Some Waves Are Just Unmakeable

The First Woman to Ride the Barrel: Speed, Grace, and the Stoke of Breaking Through

The Glass-Off: When the Ocean Becomes a Mirror

The Grip That Matters: How Surf Wax Keeps You Locked In

How the Sun’s Rays Kill Your Stick: Suncruft and the Art of Shade Hunting

The Makaha Influence: How the West Side Forged the Longboard Era

Miki Dora: The Da Cat Who Rode Alone

The Mini-Simmons Resurrection: Flat and Wide for the Purest Glide

Ripper’s Odyssey: Surf Travel and the Pursuit of the Perfect Wave

Chasing Swells: The Surfer’s Guide to Reading the Ocean and the Sky

The Mushy to Primo Spectrum: Reading the Ocean’s Mood

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Mastering the Waves

Look for a wave with a thick, pitching lip throwing out over a deep, trough-like face. The key is a clean, hollow section where the lip connects with the water ahead of the curl. You’ll see a “cylinder” or tunnel shape forming. Waves that barrel often have a distinctive, darker, and smoother face just before they break. It’s that magical, shadowy room we all dream about. If it looks like you could drive a bus through it, you’re in for a treat!

The golden rule is universal: don’t drop in! But local customs vary. In some lineups, it’s strictly local priority; in others, it’s more rotational. Watch for a few sets before you paddle out. See who’s getting the waves and how. A friendly nod goes a long way. Remember, you’re a guest in their ocean room. Being humble, patient, and observant will keep you out of trouble and might even earn you a few invites.

Bethany has absolutely charged some of the planet’s heaviest slabs. She’s a regular in the punishing surf of Pipeline on Oahu’s North Shore, taking on those thick, hollow barrels. She’s also tackled Teahupo’o in Tahiti, one of the world’s most powerful and dangerous waves. Charging these spots requires next-level wave knowledge, commitment, and guts—all things she has in spades. It proves her talent isn’t defined by an arm, but by her fearless heart and deep respect for the ocean’s raw power.

Surf Icons & Heroes

Total commitment. Layne was never one to shy away from heavy water. Her approach was built on supreme fitness, meticulous preparation, and a fearless mindset. She believed in respecting the ocean’s power but not being intimidated by it. This allowed her to perform critical maneuvers in critical sections, making her one of the most reliable tube-riders of her era. She showed that big-wave surfing wasn’t just a guy’s domain.

Ditch the idea that a shortboard makes you a surfer. As a grom, you want volume—your best friend is a funboard or a fat, wide fish. These boards paddle easier, catch waves like a dream, and help you learn to turn properly. The extra foam forgives mistakes and lets you surf more, which is the real secret. Talk to your local shaper or shop crew; they’ll point you to a magic board that matches your size and stoke level.

All cutbacks are carves, but not all carves are cutbacks. A carve is any turning maneuver where you dig your rail. A cutback is a specific type of carve where you turn back toward the breaking part of the wave. It’s a directional change to get back to the juice, while a carve can be any turn down the line.