All Articles

Offshore vs. Onshore: The Wind That Makes or Breaks a Session

The Magic of the Feedback Loop: How Video Analysis at Camp Unlocks Your Next Level

The Enduring Flow of Tom Curren’s Smooth Style

Chasing the Same Peak: The Unspoken Brotherhood of the Lineup

The Van Life Chronicles: Living the Endless Summer on Four Wheels

The Grommet: Understanding the Young Surfer’s Journey and Stoke

The Evolution of the Boardshort: Where Heavy Canvas Met High-Tech

The Art of the Paddle: The Foundation Every Surfer Builds At Camp

The Fierce Wave Within: How Andy Irons Redefined Soul Surfing

The Soul of the Arch: Why Traction Pads Are More Than Just Grip

The Zen of Mushy: Why Soft Slow Waves Deserve Respect

The Art of the Noseride: Power from the Nose

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Surf Lingo Explained

It’s not just about riding waves; it’s a full immersion. It’s prioritizing dawn patrol, having saltwater in your veins, and your schedule revolving around tides and swell. It’s worn-out wetsuits, ding repair in the garage, and road trips with boards on the roof. It’s a deep respect for the ocean, a tight-knit crew, and a mindset that values experiences over possessions. The ocean is your church, and every session is a form of meditation.

Start small and on the right wave. Find a soft, crumbling section instead of a pitching lip. Begin with a straight air, or a little “air reverse.“ The key is the launch: a solid, upward-focused bottom turn is your launch pad. Pop off the lip like an ollie, keeping your board under you. Don’t look down! Spot your landing in the foam ball. It’s gonna feel sketchy at first, but commitment is everything. Start on a foamie or a fish for more forgiveness.

Look to the horizon, not just at the water in front of you. Watch for a darker, thicker line forming way out there. Often, you’ll see the horizon seem to “boil” or disappear as the set approaches. Also, keep an eye on the more experienced surfers in the water; if they suddenly start paddling with purpose toward the horizon, they’ve likely clocked a set. It’s about reading the subtle signs before they become obvious.

The Surfing Life

Beyond the standard bandages, pack items for surf-specific injuries. Include antiseptic for reef cuts, waterproof tape and super glue for sealing those gashes, and anti-inflammatory pills. Throw in some ear drops to prevent surfer’s ear flare-ups, zinc for sun protection, and a good seasickness remedy if you’re doing boat trips. A small tube of solarez can fix board dings that might cut your feet. Being prepared lets you handle minor issues and get back in the water faster.

A quick “Left!“ or “Right!“ lets others know which way you’re going, preventing collisions. It also helps when two people are paddling for the same wave—clear communication decides who goes. A little “Go for it!“ to someone deeper is good karma. It’s all about avoiding the chaos and keeping things friendly. Clear calls make for smoother sessions and fewer close calls.

As a surfer, you’re in the water daily, so you see the changes firsthand—pollution, plastic, weird algae blooms, and shifting sandbars. You feel the water temp and see the marine life. This intimate connection makes ocean conservation personal. Protecting the break means protecting your stoke. It’s about keeping the lineup clean and the waves pumping for the next dawn patrol.