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The Empty Lineup: Finding Solitude on Sumba Island’s Reef Passes

Volume: The Secret Sauce That Actually Decides Your Surfboard Size

The Secret Life of a Surfboard Blank

The Billionaire’s Point Break: Inside the Private Villa Surf Retreat

Shaun Tomson and the Art of the Barrel: How One Man Redefined Tube Riding

Los Cerritos and the Art of the Waiting Game

The Art of the Surfari Sleeper Setup: Scoring Waves on a Dollar and a Dream

The Endless Search: How “Morning of the Earth” Redefined the Surf Documentary

How Duke Kahanamoku Carried Surfing to the World

Hobie Alter and the Fiberglass Revolution: How a Shapeshaper Built a Surf Empire

The Subtle Art of Reading the Launch Ramp for Airs

Duke Kahanamoku: The Ambassador of Aloha

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Legendary Surf Spots

For the most consistent juice, aim for autumn through early spring. That’s when the North Atlantic low-pressure systems really fire, delivering solid groundswells and those epic, glassy days after a big blow. Summer can be fun for beginners with smaller, more manageable waves, especially on the protected beaches. But if you’re hunting overhead power and empty lineups, the winter months deliver. Just be ready for shorter days, colder temps, and the potential for truly legendary sessions when the charts light up.

Totally! This is a classic reason to go custom. Bring the corpse of your beloved board to the shaper. They can take precise measurements and trace the outline to create a near-identical twin, or even make subtle improvements based on your feedback. It’s the best way to resurrect that magic feeling you had with your old stick. Sometimes, you can even make it a little better—a “ghost” with an upgrade.

Hugely important, but it’s not about the latest pro model. It’s about the right tool for the waves you’re actually surfing and your current skill level. Riding a board that’s too small or advanced will hold you back. Chat with a good shaper or local shop about what you’re riding now and what you want to do. Sometimes, a simple change like a new fin set-up or a bit more volume can unlock a whole new level of speed and confidence. Don’t fight your equipment.

Legendary Surf Spots

Etiquette is survival. The rule is simple: the surfer deepest and earliest on the peak has the wave. Don’t even think about paddling for the shoulder if someone is deeper. Wait your turn, which can be a long while. Always look before you drop in. It’s a high-stakes lineup with razor-sharp reefs and big egos. Patience and clear communication are the only ways to get your wave without a hassle.

You want performance fabrics, man. Look for terms like quick-dry, stretch, and UPF 50+. Materials like polyester blends, nylon, and sometimes recycled plastics are common. They should be lightweight, breathable, and resist holding a ton of water. Avoid cotton—it gets waterlogged, heavy, and takes forever to dry. The best hats feel almost like a second skin and you forget you’re wearing them until you realize you’re not sunburned.

A cutback is your fundamental redirect, turning back toward the whitewater or the pocket of the wave. You do it to reset your line, stay in the power source, and set up for your next maneuver. It’s like hitting the reset button with style, keeping you in the critical section instead of racing ahead onto the shoulder. It’s all about flow and maintaining that sweet connection with the wave’s energy.