Before you even think about dropping in, you gotta conquer the duck dive. It’s your passport through the washing machine. As the whitewater comes, push the nose of your board down deep with your foot and your body, using your knee on the tail. You’re essentially making your board submerge under the wave, not through it. Get this dialed on your shortboard and you’ll save heaps of energy paddling out, leaving you fresh for the set waves. It’s all about smooth, committed pressure.