Mastering the Waves

It’s about predicting what the wave will do before it happens. Watch the horizon for lumps that signal a set. As it approaches, look for the highest peak—that’s where it’ll break first. Notice the angle of the swell and the wind. You’re looking for the energy pocket, the shoulder, and any sections that might line up or close out. This skill comes from countless hours in the lineup. It’s your roadmap for the ride.

Timing is everything. Watch the sets and find the lulls. When a wall of whitewater comes, roll turtle (on a longboard) or duck dive (on a shortboard). For a duck dive, sink the nose deep, push the tail down with your foot, and use your knee to drive the board under the turbulence. Stay calm and conserve energy. Sometimes, it’s smarter to walk down the beach to a channel. Don’t fight the ocean; work with it.

Observe the vibe first. Always follow the pecking order—the surfer closest to the peak has priority. Don’t snake or drop in. Paddle wide around the break, not through the take-off zone. Give respect to get it. A friendly nod goes a long way. If you’re a kook, own it and take your turns on the inside waves. It’s about sharing the stoke, not hogging all the juice. A good attitude is your best currency.

Traction, brother! Without good wax, you’re a slip-and-slide waiting to happen. A proper wax job gives your feet the grip needed for powerful turns and critical drops. Apply a basecoat in a circular pattern for warmer water, and a topcoat for cooler temps. Keep it fresh, especially after a few sessions or if it gets slimy. It’s a simple ritual that keeps you connected to your stick. No wax, no grip, no style.