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You gotta be willing to put in the work, mate. Dawn patrol is your best friend—most crew is still in bed. Walk further down the beach or take a longer paddle than everyone else. Get off the beaten path; explore lesser-known coasts and be self-sufficient. Learn to read forecasts for spots that only work on certain swells or tides. Sometimes it means surfing when it’s smaller, or when the conditions are less than perfect. The best waves often come with a side of adventure, not convenience.

Back then, it was the only tool in the shed! Today, logging is a conscious choice—a return to soulful, trim-based surfing amidst a sea of shortboards and high-performance gear. Modern “logs” often use updated materials (lighter foam, epoxy) but keep the classic outlines and single fin for that authentic glide. The modern longboard revival is all about appreciating the roots, the style, and the pure joy of walking the board. It’s a respectful nod to the old ways with new-school construction.

Start with one good daily driver that works in most local conditions—often a funboard or a beefier shortboard. As you get more dialed in, you’ll want to add specialized sticks. A classic three-board quiver might be: a performance shortboard for good days, a step-up for bigger waves, and a fish or small-wave board for the weak days. It’s about having the right tool for the job, so you’re never skunked.

Your leash, bro! In Hawaii’s powerful surf, a broken leash isn’t just a lost board—it’s a major safety hazard for you and everyone in the lineup. Get a heavy-duty, big-wave leash with a solid rail saver. Your board becomes a deadly projectile in the impact zone. While a good, reef-resistant board and a solid pair of boardies are crucial, that leash is your lifeline. Don’t cheap out. It’s the most important safety piece after your own knowledge.