All Articles

The Mentawai Islands: A Surfer’s Soul Journey

The Hunt for the Perfect Wave in Morocco

Riding with Aloha: Embracing Responsible Surf Tourism by Respecting Local Breaks

The New School Rule: Why the Next-Gen Shredders Are Rewriting the Playbook

From Logs to Grovelers: How the Evolution of Surfboard Designs Redefined What ’Right Size’ Really Means

The Point at Scorpion Bay: Baja’s Desert Dream

Reading the Rhythm of the Ocean: How to Read a Tide Chart Like a Local

The Hunt for Scorpion Bay: A Baja Dreamscape

The Eternal Hunt: How ‘Riding Giants’ Captured the Soul of Big Wave Surfing

The Unspoken Code: Why Surfing Etiquette Is the Real Soul of the Lineup

Catching the Dawn Patrol on a Dime: The Art of the Surfari Camping Trip

The Long Period Groundswell: How to Read the Pulse and Predict the Score

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Surf Gear & Brands

This is the great debate! Liners (usually mesh) are built-in and mean you can ditch the underwear—they’re all you need. They offer support and prevent chafing. Linered shorts are classic and super convenient. Linerless shorts are more flexible, dry quicker, and feel less restrictive, like wearing comfy shorts. They require separate swimwear underneath. It’s totally a preference call. Go linerless for maximum freedom and drying speed, or go lined for that traditional, all-in-one simplicity. Try both and see what suits your session.

It starts before you even paddle out. Study the lineup from the beach, watch where sets are breaking and where the crowd is bunched. Position yourself smartly, not just where everyone else is. Work on your pop-up speed and paddle fitness; stronger paddling means you get to more waves. Don’t be afraid to sit a little wide or on the peak’s shoulder. Most importantly, commit fully when you go—hesitation is the number-one wave killer.

You’re literally riding in the same waters as the ancient Hawaiian ali’i (royalty). Surfing, or “heʻe nalu,“ was invented here as a sacred practice. When you paddle out at a legendary break, you’re participating in a centuries-old tradition. You feel the mana in the water and the history in the reef. It’s about connecting with the ‘aina (land) and the ocean on a deeper level, not just the thrill of the ride. That connection is the soul of surfing.

The Surfing Life

For marathon sessions, focus on complex carbs and healthy fats for sustained energy. Quinoa, brown rice, avocados, and nuts are your best friends. These foods break down slowly, giving you a steady drip of fuel instead of a quick spike and crash. Eating this way regularly builds a strong energy base, so you can handle a four-hour session when it’s firing. It’s like having a bigger gas tank—you can stay out longer, catch more waves, and still have juice for the paddle back to the peak.

The local crew is the soul of the break. They set the vibe, the rules (like the notorious “Locals Only” at some spots), and protect the place. Their deep knowledge of the wave and the area is priceless. Integrating respectfully is key when you travel. The culture—whether it’s the aloha of Hawaii, the laid-back vibe of Aus, or the fierce pride in California—is what gives a legendary spot its true character beyond just the wave.

Hop on a twinny when you want pure speed and flow. With just two fins, there’s less drag, so you can generate insane down-the-line speed. They’re super loose and skatey, perfect for small, mushy days or when you want to draw out longer, more drawn-out turns on a fish or a wider tail. Just be ready for a bit less pivot and a looser feel in the pocket compared to a thruster.