All Articles

The Lone Soul of the Surf: Gerry Lopez and the Mythic Pipeline

The Green Room Wrapped in Pura Vida

The Banzai Pipeline: Where North Shore Power Meets Pure Nerve

The Pulse of the Deep: Reading Mavericks’ Swell

The Heartbeat of the Lineup: Why Local Surf Shops Are the Soul of the Coast

The Pebble Lane Pact

The Glassy Hour: Why Dawn Patrol Beats Every Other Surf

Tom Curren’s Quiet Power: How Smooth Style Rewrote Surfing’s Rules

The Timeless Dance of Supertubes: Jeffreys Bay’s Endless Right

Finding the Green Room: A Deep Dive into Barrels

From Mushy Garbage to Primo Perfection: Reading the Ocean’s Mood

The Endless Summer: How One Film Sent the Whole World Surfing

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What’s The Deal With…?

Surf Travel Adventures

The secret is simple: go where others don’t. Dawn patrol is golden—most folks are still in bed. Avoid weekends and holidays if you can. Seek out lesser-known spots that require a hike or a tricky paddle. Or, travel in the shoulder seasons, just before or after the prime season. You might sacrifice perfect conditions, but scoring a peak with just your crew is a feeling that’s hard to beat.

Timing and turtle rolls, my friend! Watch the set, don’t just charge. Time your dash between waves. When a wall of whitewater is unavoidable, go for the turtle roll: flip your board over, grab the rails, and submerge yourself on the backside of the board. Let the foam ball roll over you, then flip back and paddle like hell. For bigger boards, a skilled duck dive is key. It’s about using the ocean’s energy, not fighting it head-on.

Check the waves you surf most days! For mushy, slow breaks, you’ll want more volume and length—think funboard or mini-mal. For punchy, hollow beach breaks, a performance shortboard with good rocker will help you rip. Consider your skill level; more foam equals more forgiveness. Talk to the salty dogs at your local shop; they know the spot best. Your quiver should match your home surf, so you’re always ready to slide.

Mastering the Waves

Match the leash length to your board size, generally. A 7-foot board needs a 7-foot leash. Bigger waves or guns demand a thicker cord (like 9mm+) for extra strength so it doesn’t snap on a heavy wipeout. Coiled leashes are great for longboards to avoid tangling. A good leash has a solid swivel to prevent tangling and a comfortable calf strap. Remember, it’s your lifeline to your board—don’t go for the cheapest option. It keeps you and others in the lineup safer.

Shortboards (under 7’) are high-performance: fast, sharp turns, but hard to paddle. Fish are short, wide, and thick, with a twin-fin setup for insane speed in small waves—super fun! Funboards (7’-8’) are the sweet spot for many: they paddle like a longboard, turn easier, and are great for progressing. It’s about the wave and your style. Want to rip? Shortboard. Want smiles in knee-high surf? Fish. Want a do-everything cruiser? Funboard.

You’re likely using wax that’s too soft for the water temp. In tropical heat, even warm-water wax can turn to mush. Always shade your board from direct sun when you’re not riding. If you’re in seriously hot destinations, consider a wax cooler bag or a tropical/hard combo. A solid basecoat helps, but sometimes you just gotta re-apply more often. It’s a small price to pay for firing waves in warm water.