All Articles

When Duke Kahanamoku Paddled Into the History Books: The Venice Beach Rescue

The Evolution of the Board Bag: From Day Sack to Travel Coffin

Chasing the Abyss: The Gnarly Psychology of Surfing the Extreme

The Flex Factor: Why Your Fins Should Bend

The Art of the Inducement: Setting Up for an Aerial

The Green Room: A Surfer’s Sanctuary and the Ultimate Score

Pipe Dreams: The Science and Soul of Sunset Beach’s Next-Gen Chargers

The Kapu of the Wave: How Ancient Hawaiian Law Shaped the Birth of Surfing

The Silent Sunrise at a Private Maldives Atoll

Stoke and the Flow State: The Surfer’s Nirvana

The Frothing Factor: Why the Right Point Break is the Ultimate Stoke Machine

The Art of the Surfari: Living the Endless Summer on the Road

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Surf Travel Adventures

Your favorite board, if you can travel with it. Otherwise, pack a good leash, a couple of bars of wax (cool/warm/tropical), and a solid reef-safe sunscreen. Don’t forget your boardies or wetsuit—even tropical dawnies can get chilly. A basic first-aid kit for reef cuts is smart. Throw in a spare fin key and some ding repair epoxy. Pack light, but pack right.

Immediately kick out or straighten off to get off the wave. A quick, sincere “My bad!“ or “Sorry!“ goes a long way. Don’t just pretend it didn’t happen. Acknowledging your mistake shows you understand the rules and respect the other surfer. We all make errors, but owning up to it maintains the good vibes in the water. It’s the difference between an honest mistake and being that guy.

Going down the line is the essence of riding a wave. Instead of riding straight toward the beach, you angle your board along the open, unbroken face of the wave, traveling parallel to the shore. This lets you build speed, set up for turns, and potentially race the closing section to get barreled. It’s about flow and connection with the wave’s energy. Mastering this fundamental skill opens up the whole wave for you, turning a simple drop into a real ride.

Surf History & Legends

Legendary Rell Sunn helped put Makaha on the map for women’s competitive surfing in Hawaii. In modern times, waterwomen like Keala Kennelly were instrumental in proving that waves like Teahupo’o weren’t just for the boys. Through charging and filming in remote locations, female surf explorers have also highlighted incredible waves from Fiji to Iceland, expanding the map for everyone and showing that perfect barrels exist far beyond the traditional trail.

Volume (measured in liters) is your float and paddle power. More volume means easier paddling, earlier wave-catching, and more stability—key for groms or bigger surfers. Less volume means a more responsive, sinky board for radical turns, but requires stronger paddling. It’s about matching the board’s “foam” to your weight and skill level. Too little, and you’ll struggle; too much, and you’ll feel corky.

Hit up your local shaper or a good shop and have a chat! Tell them about the waves you usually surf and what you’re riding now. For most people, a mid-length (like a 7’0” egg) or a modern fish is the perfect gateway. They’re user-friendly and instantly rewarding. Don’t be afraid to demo or buy secondhand to get a feel. The goal is to add a new flavor to your surfing, not replace your daily driver. Just get one and feel the glide!