All Articles

The Philosophy of the Ding: Why Every Scar Tells a Story

Catching Stoke with the Whole Crew: Family Surf Adventures at Playa Guiones

The Foil That Set Us Free: How Rocker and Rail Unlocked the Vertical World

The Baja Sur Sweet Spot: Timing Your Desert Point Dream

The Rise of the Baggy: Why Looser Boardshorts Rule the Lineup

The Tale of the Travel-Ready Thread: How One Boardshort Redefined the Road Trip

The Alaia Revival: How Ancient Hawaiian Wooden Surfboards Shaped the Modern Soul Surfer

The Endless Summer: A True Tale of Ocean Obsession and the Search for the Perfect Wave

The Monsoon Magic: Scoring the Best Swells on Sri Lanka’s South Coast

The Soul of a Left: Why Los Cerritos Draws You Back

The Art of Compression and Extension in the Bottom Turn

Riding the Superbank: The Gold Coast’s Gift of Eternal Summer

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Surf Lingo Explained

Listen to that little voice—if something feels off, it probably is. Know your absolute limits and respect them; there’s no shame in sitting on the beach. Always warm up, check the conditions thoroughly, and never paddle out alone in heavy stuff. Pushing limits is about incremental steps, not reckless leaps. A calculated risk on a slightly bigger day with your crew is progression; paddling out in double-overhead chaos without the skills is just dangerous. Live to surf another day, always.

This depends on your trip’s climate. For cooler zones, a 3/2mm and a 4/3mm cover most bases. A hooded vest can be a lifesaver. One reliable changing robe is enough—just let it dry between sessions. For tropical trips, a light rashguard or a 1mm top will protect from the sun and reef. Always rinse your gear with fresh water to keep it fresh.

Your quiver depends on the season and break. Winter North Shore demands a good step-up or gun for powerful, overhead surf. A solid shortboard and a solid reef booties are essential for the shallow setups. Summer South Shore is more forgiving—a funboard or hybrid is perfect. Always pack a quality leash and consider a helmet for shallow reef surfing. Unless you’re shipping boards, renting from a local shop is a smart move and supports the island economy.

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Pack a serious quiver: a good-step up for overhead power, your daily driver, and maybe a gun for the biggest days. Don’t forget a reef booties—you’ll need ’em. Bring multiple leashes, a solid first-aid kit, and plenty of wax and sunscreen. Since it’s remote, pack any specific gear or repairs (solarez, fin keys). For off-the-beach, lightweight clothes, a hat, and a good book for the boat trips. A positive, adventurous attitude is mandatory gear.

Think eco from the beach to the board. Sunscreen that’s “reef-safe” (oxybenzone and octinoxate-free) is non-negotiable to protect fragile coral. Consider a board made with more sustainable materials like recycled foam or bio-resins. Your gear bag? Ditch single-use plastics. Supporting brands that prioritize the environment helps push the whole industry toward greener practices. Every purchase is a vote for the kind of world you want to surf in.

Timing is everything. Watch the sets and find the lulls. When a wall of whitewater comes, roll turtle (on a longboard) or duck dive (on a shortboard). For a duck dive, sink the nose deep, push the tail down with your foot, and use your knee to drive the board under the turbulence. Stay calm and conserve energy. Sometimes, it’s smarter to walk down the beach to a channel. Don’t fight the ocean; work with it.